Hockey Stick Bow Guide: Which Bow Is Right for You?

Bows, bows and more bows! Pro bows, mid bows, low bows, late bows, concave bows, standard bows... The world of hockey stick bows is a minefield, and it doesn't help that every brand calls theirs something different. Here's what each bow does, who it suits and which bow each brand uses in its 2026/27 range.

Bow height vs bow position

Every bow comes down to two things:

• Height: how deep the curve is. The rules cap it at 25mm, and most adult sticks sit just under that (Osaka list 24mm even on their senior Mid Bow), while junior sticks can be much shallower: Osaka's junior Mid Bow GF is 17mm.
• Position: where along the stick the curve peaks. This is what really changes how a stick plays. The closer the peak is to the head, the easier it is to get under the ball for aerials, flicks and 3D skills, and the harder it is to keep hits flat. The rules say the peak can't be closer than 200mm to the head, which is why so many specialist sticks sit at exactly 200mm.

Osaka's range is a handy way to see the difference, because they give the position for every bow: their Mid Bow peaks 300mm from the head, the Pro Bow at 250mm, and the Low Bow Advanced and Proto Bow at 200mm.

Standard and mid bow

For: juniors, beginners and players who want to keep the ball on the ground and hit it well. Not for: drag flicks, aerials or 3D skills.

Straight and forgiving: when you hit the ball, you're unlikely to lift it by mistake. Most junior sticks and lots of entry-level and mid-range adult sticks sit here, like the Osaka Mid Bow WD, Y1's JMB, the Kookaburra MB range and Grays' wooden Aura GT and Impulse GT. Browse mid bow sticks.

All-round and gradual low bows

For: improving players moving up a level, and juniors moving into adult sticks. Not for: complete beginners still learning to keep the ball down.

These sit between a mid and a full low bow. Examples include Y1's ADB and GLB, Grays' all-round Dynabow Plus, TK's Control Bow (24mm at 240mm), adidas' Estro and Fabela (mid-low bows) and the Osaka Pro Bow, which peaks at 250mm and is built around 3D ball control.

Low bow

For: competent adult players who want to use 3D skills, aerials and drag flicks. Not for: beginners, as the ball can lift unpredictably until your stick skills are strong.

The most popular bow for adult sticks. Examples include the Y1 LB (24.5mm at 200mm) and the midfield-focused Y1 MR, Grays' Jumbow Plus for flicks and aerials, the adidas Ruzo (220mm), the Osaka Low Bow Advanced, the Kookaburra LB range and the TK Late Bow. Browse all low bow sticks.

Ultra-low bow

For: advanced players who want to make the most of drag flicks, aerials and 3D skills. Not for: anyone who can't yet keep their hits flat consistently.

These peak very close to the head. Examples include the Y1 YLB, Grays' Probow Plus, the adidas Chaosfury and Ina, Nike's Laser (25mm at 200mm), the Osaka Proto Bow and TK's Xtreme Late Bow. Browse all ultra-low bow sticks.

Concave and specialist drag flicking sticks

For: elite drag flickers and corner specialists. Not for: most club players, as first touch and general play get harder.

Usually very similar to an ultra-low bow, but some have a face that curves inwards to keep the ball on the stick for longer during a drag. The TK Ultra DF has its own profile built purely for drag flicking, and the Y1 YLB has a natural concave shape in the shaft. Our drag flicking guide has more.

So which bow is right for me?

• Beginner or junior: standard or mid bow.
• Improving club player: mid bow to gradual low bow.
• Experienced player using 3D skills or flicks: low bow.
• Advanced drag flicker: ultra-low or concave.

A big bow isn't good or bad, it's about what suits your game. If you're stuck between two, go for the gentler one. For the rest of the decision, read our guide on how to choose the right hockey stick, or give us a call on 0191 447 4744, drop us a message on live chat or pop into the shop.